Light Painting

How I Got the Shot: Milky Way and White Dome Geyser, Yellowstone

Milky Way and White Dome Geyser, Yellowstone. Nikon D5 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens, light painted with a Luxli Viola. 25 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 6400.

The Location

I love Yellowstone National Park’s White Dome Geyser. I’ve been photographing it since 2010.

I first targeted it as the solution to a self-challenge. While preparing for a 10-day shoot in Yellowstone, I’d had a sudden inspiration that I wanted to silhouette a geyser eruption in front of a sunrise or sunset. I started researching which of the park’s 500 geysers would give me good chances for a good photo. In my mind, three criteria were important:

  1. The geyser had to erupt frequently. I didn’t want an hours-long window between eruptions, because I needed to be able to time it with a sunrise or sunset.

  2. The geyser had to erupt predictably. That solves the same problem as above—if the estimated time of the predicted eruption was wrong by two hours, I wouldn’t be able to time the eruption with a sunrise or sunset.

  3. The geyser had to have an aesthetic quality that could be silhouetted. A hole in the ground wouldn’t work—physical structure was important.

After a fair amount of pre-trip research, I settled on White Dome Geyser. Its eruption times can vary, but not nearly as widely as most other geysers (the average interval is about half an hour for White Dome, as opposed to hours, days, weeks, months or years for others); it’s relatively predictable, rarely varying by more than 30 minutes or so; its presence is visually notable, as it features a sinter cone that rises 12 feet from the ground.

The geyser didn’t disappoint. Once I arrived on location, it took me three tries (because of weather), but eventually I got my shot (Figure 1). Then over the years I fondly visited and photographed White Dome a few more times, during daylight and moonlight. I’ve come to know the spot well.

Figure 1. White Dome Geyser erupting at sunset in 2010. Nikon D3 with a Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8 lens. 1/800, f/5.6, ISO 200.

So this past September, when Tim Cooper and I were leading a night photography workshop in Yellowstone and we had the idea of light painting an eruption with the Milky Way in the background, I had an inkling for a geyser that might work. White Dome would be a good target once again, for all the reasons mentioned above. We did a daytime scout with PhotoPills (Figure 2), which showed that the galactic core would be behind the geyser by about 10 p.m. Perfect!

Figure 2. PhotoPills proved our hunch that we could photograph the Milky Way behind White Dome geyser that week, and told us what time we could expect that to happen.

The Shoot

We never have just one idea for a location—we come loaded with a few (including, in this case, star circles over a nearby hot spring), and of course we let workshop participants run with their own ideas as well. On the night we visited that location, most of the group shot by the hot spring, because that photo opportunity was immediate, while the White Dome idea wouldn’t work until a few hours into the evening, after the moon set.

With that being the case, the idea for the Milky Way behind the geyser was nearly forgotten. Folks did some twilight light painting, followed by Tim and I running a long demo to help participants set up for shooting star circles under moonlight, followed by an hour-plus of everyone chatting under the night sky while their cameras ripped a series of 2-minute exposures.

Except for James and me.

Earlier in the evening I’d set up a series of star-circle exposures over White Dome Geyser. I wanted to go back to stop the camera, and James, one of the workshop participants, decided he’d join me.

After breaking down that north-facing setup, I remembered the Milky Way idea and we circled the geyser to see how things were lining up. The answer? Perfectly! We decided we’d do a quick setup—not to wait for the geyser to erupt, but to just light paint the steam with the Milky Way in the background.

We set up our tripods, and worked out our compositions, focus and exposure. Then we added some light with a Luxli Viola. The approach was straight-forward. We didn’t have much choice for an angle to light from, because we could walk on only one side of the geyser (the side with the paved road)—so we just walked far enough to get a 90-degree angle at the steam. The only real question was how much light to add, and we figured that out with just three test shots (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Testing the light painting. From left: a little too much, a little too little, almost perfect.

We were very happy with that third shot, enough to pack up and move back to the rest of the group. We came within seconds of breaking down our setups, when—swoosh! Water started gushing skyward!

We couldn’t have timed it better if we’d tried. We were already set up, composed, focused and dialed in with our exposure, and we knew exactly how much light to add and from where to add it. All we needed to do was execute everything again. So we did. And we got the two shots in Figure 4.

Figure 4. The two photos that include the eruption.

The Reshoot

James and I were ecstatic about our … well, let’s not say at “luck,” but rather at the meeting of luck and preparation. On the way back to the group, we were pretty charged about the image we’d just made. We showed the rest of the participants, and they were excited too, enough so that four of them wanted to stay late to shoot a similar photo.

By the time we made it back to White Dome, an hour had passed. It was almost midnight, and the Milky Way had moved. Seven of us set up along the side of the road, and Tim and I set two Violas on the ground, pointed toward the geyser. We tested our exposures, and waited.

But this time, we weren’t as fortunate. We encountered a few problems.

First Reshoot

We didn’t have to wait terribly long for the next eruption. White Dome blew again at about 12:30. We were all excited and started shooting. But …

Unfortunately, someone had the Luxli Composer app open on their phone and accidentally touched a control. Instantly the light color changed from the nice warm temperature of 3200 K to bright blue (Figure 5). White Dome’s eruptions last about two minutes, but the maximum flow occurs for less than half of that. When you’re dealing with a 15- to 25-second exposure, that means you usually get one good shot—maybe two—per eruption. The color change happened during that narrow window, so … well, we missed the shot.

Figure 5. First reshoot. Oops.

Still, we were enjoying the now-dark sky (the moon had set two hours earlier by that point) and the quiet surrounds of a beautiful national park—not to mention each other’s company. So we got over our disappointment and settled in for another try.

Second Reshoot

That opportunity came 50 minutes later—at 1:23 a.m. But …

At exactly 1:20 a.m—just three minutes before the next eruption, for the first time all night, the breeze shifted. All of us had set up compositions with the galactic core to the left of the geyser, and now the steam was blowing across—and obscuring—the Milky Way. Then, swoosh!, White Dome blew. Once again, we didn’t get the shot.

Figure 6. Second reshoot. Dang wind!

We were deflated. We were disappointed. And we were exhausted. We were done. We decided we couldn’t and wouldn’t wait for another eruption.

Then a funny thing happened: We waited anyway. We didn’t break down. We didn’t pack up our gear. We didn’t leave. Instead, we stood there talking and laughing and, for some reason, not getting any more tired. I can attribute that only to something about the magic of nature at night.

Third Reshoot

Thus, when the geyser blew again at 2 a.m., we were ready. The Milky Way was tilting perfectly. The light was right. The breeze was blowing gently to the right. Everything was perfectly in place, and we all got the shot (Figure 7).

We felt good. In fact, we felt great! We hooted, we hollered, we high-fived. Then we packed the cars to head back to the hotel, hitting the road about 2:30 a.m. and the beds well after 3:00.

Figure 7. Third reshoot. Yay!

Wrapping Up

All the takes on that night’s scene were straight-forward: just the right exposure with the right amount of added light. As such, the post-production didn’t require anything fancy or complex—just basic adjustments to tune the white balance and exposure, then to boost local contrast with Dehaze and Texture.

The biggest matter in post was choosing which frame I like the most. By the end of the night I’d had two cameras running—one vertical and one horizontal—and thus I had about 20 exposures with the geyser actually erupting (plus about 120 with just steam). Many of the images had merits, but I decided that my first take with James was my favorite. I just liked the way the water and steam were moving in the composition, mimicking the shape of the galactic core.

Milky Way and White Dome Geyser, Yellowstone. Nikon D5 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens, light painted with a Luxli Viola. 25 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 6400.

Chris Nicholson is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night, and author of Photographing National Parks (Sidelight Books, 2015). Learn more about national parks as photography destinations, subscribe to Chris' free e-newsletter, and more at www.PhotographingNationalParks.com.

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Living Room Long Exposures: Seizing the Night at Home

A few weeks ago I returned from our Lofoten workshop to a totally different world.

Upon arriving back in NYC, I passed the “temperature test” but was asked to go into 14 days of self-quarantine. While two weeks indoors might cause us to go stir-crazy, I always try to look on the positive side of things. So I decided to use my time to count my hats and to work on a ton of other home-based projects.

By nature, I like to live creatively. I need to take pictures, preferably ones that bend time, and I was getting antsy with this much time on my hands. What could I create in an 800-square-foot apartment? Let me preface my answer by mentioning the following limitations:

  • My view out the window is of South Brooklyn.

  • I have no official studio space.

  • I live with my wife Nancy and Theo the Cat.

I thought of what great artists have done indoors. There was Sugimoto’s brilliantly inspiring Theater series for which he photographed old-school movie houses using one long exposure for the duration of the film (Figure 1). And dreams came alive in Steve Harper’s beautiful time-filled 4.5-hour self-portrait while sleeping (Figure 2).

Figure 1. “Radio City Music Hall, New York, 1978.” Hiroshi Sugimoto.

Figure 2. “Self Asleep.” Steve Harper, 1984.

Sufficiently motivated, I started writing down ideas and a shot list.

My self-quarantine took place mainly in our living room—which is 300 square feet and filled to the brim with “stuff.” Yet, I sat there calmly with the lights out and enjoyed watching the twilight shine through the windows, its cool blue light crawling across our warm-toned walls. I binge-watched some TV and thought about how long an exposure would be required to light the room with a 50-inch TV. And, of course, I wondered what I would look like to a camera while sleeping and dreaming for 4.5 hours.

How Long Can You Go?

That was obviously the first question I wanted to answer.

I slept on the couch for a good portion of my self-quarantined return. This actually provided the best space for me to work on those “sleeping selfie” shots. I treated it just like any other long exposure:

Step 1. I left the lights on to finesse the composition and focus, and then left the camera in manual focus.

Figure 3. Testing the focus and composition. Nikon D750 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 8 seconds, f/11, ISO 320.

Step 2. I turned off the lights and did a high ISO test shot at 30 seconds, f/5.6, ISO 6400. This allowed me to check for extraneous light sources spilling into the image.

Figure 4. Note the light coming from another room as well as the light spots on the bed coming from the window curtain not being completely closed. Nikon D750 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 30 seconds, f/5.6, ISO 6400.

Step 3. The previous test shot was still very dark, so I increased my ISO by one stop and opened my aperture by two stops for the final test: 30 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 12800.

Figure 5. Nikon D750 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 30 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 12800.

Step 4. That looked good, so using the Six-Stop Rule, I knew an equivalent long exposure would be 30 minutes, f/2.8, ISO 200. But 30 minutes wasn’t enough for me. I wanted one hour, plus a little more depth of field. So I took away two stops of light by closing down my aperture to f/5.6. I then extended my shutter speed to 60 minutes and raised my ISO to 400.

Step 5. For the final shot it was also very important to turn on the in-camera Long Exposure Noise Reduction (LENR). My apartment runs about 70 degrees F and any exposures over 6 minutes start to show the red, blue and green confetti noise in the image. LENR removes the noise, but also requires the equivalent amount of time to process in-camera. So my 1-hour exposure with LENR actually took 2 hours to complete. Fortunately I was using the Tether Tools Case Relay, which lets you connect to any USB power pack. I used the 10,000-mAh Rock Solid, which lasted another 6 hours!

Figure 6. The final shot. Nikon D750 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 1 hour, f/5.6, ISO 400.

However, while shooting longer exposures, I made a very unfortunate discovery with both my Nikon D750 and Z 6. The LENR wasn’t effective with shutter speeds over 1 hour at 70 F. Even with LENR turned on, the D750 showed a ton of noise at 3 hours and the Z 6 started to show noise at 2 hours.

Figure 7. Zoomed-in view of the of the D750 3-hour exposure, with long exposure noise (left). (Click to expand the image and see the noise.)

Figure 8. Zoomed-in view of the of the Z 6 2-hour exposure, with long exposure noise. (Click to expand the image and see the noise.)

(Not to be daunted, I know of one type of camera that does not suffer from any type of long exposure noise: film cameras! So I ran another long exposure with film, and can hardly wait to develop it.)

Living Room Light Painting

Another fun technique that is easy to practice in your living room is light painting. Sure, most of us don’t have mountains or sand dunes right outside our window that we can paint, but there are plenty of objects inside that can help us sharpen our lighting skills.

The Door

The first thing I noticed was my door. In my previous sleeping photos, I loved the glow through the door frame and wanted to explore that visual. But shooting only a dark door wouldn’t be enough. So, light painting to the rescue!

One of the first lessons we teach in light painting is to paint the subject from an oblique angle. This sidelighting can bring out wonderful texture in any surfaces, including walls and doors.

I stood on my ottoman and closed my hand over the head of my Coast HP5R flashlight to create a small snoot. This created unique beams that reminded me of light streaming through half-open blinds.

The rest of the room was dark, and my exposure was based on just the light painting. I used the T (Time) mode on the Z 6, pressed the trigger on my Vello Shutterboss II to start the exposure, did my light painting, and pressed the trigger again to close the exposure. I could have used Bulb mode instead, but I generally default to T for something as easy as this.

The fun thing with the door project was creating a slightly different pattern each time (Figures 9 and 10). Which one do you prefer?

Figure 9. Nikon Z 6 with a Nikon Z 24-70mm f/4 lens, lit with a Coast HP5R. 25 seconds, f/8, ISO 1600.

Figure 10. Nikon Z 6 with a Nikon Z 24-70mm f/4 lens, lit with a Coast HP5R. 37 seconds, f/8, ISO 1600.

The Leica

The next challenge for a light painting subject was my classic camera collection. I used my macro lens, got in tight and decided to use a soft style of light painting. I darkened the room and shined my flashlight though a Lastolite Halo 2-Stop Diffuser. The Halo is a great portable way to take a small light source that typically produces hard shadows and turn it into a big (32 inches, in this case) light source that creates a much softer light.

Product photography usually requires even illumination with multiple lights so you can easily “see the product.” I achieved this effect with one diffused flashlight and a long exposure. During shutter speeds of 10 to 20 seconds, I started my light painting from the side but then moved the light near to straight-on.

Figure 11. Nikon Z 6 with a Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro lens, lit with a Coast HP5R through a Lastolite Halo 2-Stop Diffuser. 20 seconds, f/5.6, ISO 320.

Figure 12. Nikon Z 6 with a Tamron 90mm macro lens, lit with a Coast HP5R through a Lastolite Halo 2-Stop Diffuser. 15 seconds, f/11, ISO 800.

You can see different effects of experimenting with how long I held the light at different angles. Figures 11 and 12 were shot in a completely dark room. I noticed that the light was spilling onto my white wall and thus creating a brighter background than I wanted. So for the last shot (Figure 13), I moved back a bit and angled the light source down so there was minimal spill, thus creating a darker background.

Figure 13. Nikon Z 6 with Nikon Z 6 with a Tamron 90mm macro lens, lit with a Coast HP5R through a Lastolite Halo 2-Stop Diffuser. 10 seconds, f/11, ISO 800.

The Don

Obviously, we at NPAN are big fans of night portraits. This is something that, with a willing partner, you can practice in a darkened room at home. In my case, my partner wasn’t as willing, so I did the next best thing: I practiced with a wooden Don Quixote.

For this shot, I wanted to move away from the product photography style and go back to creating dramatic lighting. I chose my Mini Maglite, which has a warm-toned xenon bulb that emits a low 14 lumens. Direct light allowed me to work close to the figure and create more contrast.

I rolled a thick piece of paper around the head of the Maglite. This makeshift snoot helped me create a tight beam so that I could be very specific with where I placed the light, as I wanted to ensure it wouldn’t spill on the table or background.

Figure 14. Test shot—no light painting, just ambient exposure. Nikon Z 6 with a Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro lens. 4 seconds, f/11, ISO 800.

Figure 15. Final shot—with all the ambient light turned off, the light painting creates the drama. Nikon Z 6 with a Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro lens, lit with a Mini Maglite. 5 seconds, f/11, ISO 800.]

Multiple Exposures vs. Long Exposures

Multiple exposures have been trending lately. Multiple-moods portraits seem to encapsulate our feelings in these anxious times.

I’m multiple-exposure curious. I used to do it in the darkroom, but now mirrorless cameras make it so easy to do in-camera. You take a picture, the LCD shows the overlay, and then you take another. This allows you to best align your images in-camera.

Call me old school, but I prefer doing it this way: Turn out all the lights and shoot one long exposure, then move about the scene and pop a flash when you’re wherever you want to appear. This freezes yourself in the frame multiple times.

I set about this challenge, and after several tries I started honing in on the proper timing and power of the flash. I directed myself into three different positions and popped a handheld Profoto A1 each time. The overall exposure was 80 seconds and the power level of the flash was 7.5.

One of the tricks to pulling this off was ensuring that the A1 only helped the photo, and didn’t hurt it with its lit digital back. I had to run around while being careful not to shine the digital read-out light toward the camera, which would have caused a light streak in the scene. Needless to say it was a frantic 80 seconds, especially with changing hats for every pop of the flash!

Figure 16. Nikon Z 6 with a Nikon Z 24-70 f/4 lens, lit with a Profoto A1. 82 seconds, f/8, ISO 50.

I also tried using the camera’s multiple exposure mode, which did make for a more relaxed experience. I set my camera to Time mode and clicked the shutter open. I walked into the scene, assumed position and popped the flash. Then I walked back to the camera, stopped the exposure, reviewed the image, switched hats and started the second shot.

Multiple exposure mode is often for two shots being combined, but most cameras will let you do more than that. Be careful in how you layer together your composition, so as not to converge your figures or your lighting.

Figure 17. Nikon Z 6 with a Nikon Z 24-70 f/4 lens, lit with a Profoto A1. In-camera triple exposure set to “average,” each shot at 30 seconds, f/8, ISO 50.

Comparing the shots, we can see it’s possible to get similar results with each technique. The overall exposure in the first is brighter because more ambient light filtered into the room during the longer exposure. Which do you like better?

Ending on a Fun Note

This last shot was my ode to Sugimoto’s theater series with the updated “stay at home and binge” twist. The only light source in the room is the TV, which was showing an episode of Schitt’s Creek. Theo the Cat jumped into the scene and held still for the 8-second exposure—a true night photographer’s pet!

Figure 18. Theo the Cat. Nikon Z 6 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 8 seconds, f/13, ISO 1250.

Are you looking at your living room a little differently now? Why don’t you give it a try? We challenge you, our community, to experiment with some indoor long exposures. Limit yourself to one room in your house. Turn off the lights and let your creativity guide you in the dark.

Then, share the photos with us! Last week we launched “The Night Crew Image Review,” a free livestream program on our YouTube channel, which will run every Thursday at 8 p.m. ET. We’re giving you a 10-day deadline. Work on those indoor long exposures and submit them to us at npan.co/imagereview by noon ET on April 16. Tune in that night to see what you and others created, and we’ll offer some tips at the same time.

Gabriel Biderman is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night. He is a Brooklyn-based fine art and travel photographer, and author of Night Photography: From Snapshots to Great Shots (Peachpit, 2014). During the daytime hours you'll often find Gabe at one of many photo events around the world working for B&H Photo’s road marketing team. See his portfolio and workshop lineup at www.ruinism.com.

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How I Got the Shot: Dueling Dinos in Borrego Springs

Dueling Dinosaurs, Borrego Springs, California. Nikon D750 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens, lit with a Luxli Viola and Maglite Mini. 25 seconds, f/4.5, ISO 4000.

The Location

Ricardo Breceda’s metal sculptures in Borrego Springs, California, are intense and dramatic with or without light painting. They are incredibly fun to shoot. The 130 sculptures are spread out over about 8 miles of desert, but two of my favorites are a pair of giant dinosaurs that stand together in eternal battle.

The relationship between these two makes for some great composition options. The two dinosaurs are about the same size and roughly 40 or 50 feet apart, although they don’t appear that way in these images. I set up the camera to make it look like the near dinosaur was about to bite off the head of the more distant one.

You can find Ricardo’s two dinosaurs right here.

The Exposure

I was collaborating with Cutler Connaughton, one of our workshop participants when we partnered with Atlas Obscura this past May. We placed our cameras very close together, as there was very limited space to get the alignment just right.

After determining the composition, we focused and decided on the ambient exposure. I was using an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens, which I can usually shoot at f/2.8 and get incredibly sharp results. But in this case I needed to stop down to f/4.5 for more depth of field. The 400 Rule told me that my longest usable shutter speed for star points with the 15mm was 25 seconds, so I set the ISO accordingly to get an adequate background exposure. Final exposure: 25 seconds, f/4.5, ISO 4000.

This is the final composition without any added light. I thought that it worked as a silhouette, but knew it could be improved with a suggestion of detail. I don’t want to reveal everything with my lighting—I want the viewer to be left with questions. If you have all of the answers with a quick glance, there’s no need to keep looking at the image, and I want to keep eyes on the picture as long as possible. Nikon D750 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 25 seconds, f/4.5, ISO 4000.

The Lighting

This exposure left the dinosaurs completely silhouetted. We needed to add light.

We turned on a Luxli Viola and set it to 10 percent power and 3000 K, and mounted it on a hand-held Elinchrom boom arm. I wanted to use a warm color balance to bring out the rust color of the steel sculptures, which would contrast nicely with the cool natural light.

Ten percent brightness provided just enough intensity to accomplish what we needed during the exposure, while still providing a good amount of control over the added light. Turning up the power of the Luxli would have gotten the job done in less time, but would have been less forgiving if my positioning wasn’t perfect while painting. Every decision I make when creating an image is a compromise, balancing the various elements required to make the shot work.

The Shoot

Cutler triggered both cameras, while I experimented with the lights.

We made a total of 47 exposures of this setup! Refining the composition took five frames, as we had to have our cameras nearly touching and the tripod legs overlapping to make it work. The rest of the exposures involved making slight modifications in the lighting. It’s not unusual for me to make six to 10 variations to get an image just right, but this one required a lot of perseverance.

The sequence of 47 exposures that Cutler and I made together. The final version actually occurred about two-thirds of the way through the sequence, but we kept at it because we weren’t confident that we had what we were after.

The lighting involved four steps from four different positions, and three of the four steps were done with a single light source during the 25-second exposure. I could have set up multiple lights in fixed positions or lit each part of the scene in separate exposures, but I needed the exercise! I ran from one spot to the next over and over again, reviewing the results with Cutler and making mental notes each time for the next exposure.

The first light position was about two feet behind and over the right shoulder of the foreground dinosaur. This is the main light in the image, and even slight variations in position altered the overall appearance dramatically. The light was about 10 feet off the ground, which is why I was using the boom arm.

I couldn’t tell you how much light was added from each position, but I had good control over the process, and that’s what’s important.

The second light position was just out of the frame from camera-right, and slightly behind the foreground dinosaur. The purpose here was to backlight the teeth of the beast to emphasize its ferociousness.

For the third position, I ran further to the right and behind the second dinosaur to light that one. I wanted to show texture as well as detail, so it was important to light from an oblique angle.

Cutler took care of the last detail (from the fourth position), which was to light the left claw of the foreground dinosaur with an incandescent Maglite Mini flashlight, just enough to separate it from the background. The color balance of the Maglite Mini is a little warmer than the Luxli, but against the monochromatic rusted steel, this isn’t noticeable. If Cutler had been using an LED light, the color difference would have been obvious. The mini-Mag was a good choice for this task also because it was both dim and focusable.

I recommend that people count seconds in their head when they light paint to get a repeatable and consistent effect in the image. I’ve been doing this for so long that I work by what feels right rather than actually timing the light in each position. For this image, I couldn’t tell you how much light was added from each position, but I had good control over the process, and that’s what’s important.

The final image, before and after being lit as described in the text. Nikon D750 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 25 seconds, f/4.5, ISO 4000.

Location Lighting  vs. Light Painting

Other photographers might have approached this scene differently. Most would probably not have run around tripping over rocks and waving a light on a stick in the dark, but that’s just the way I roll.

Using fixed-position lights on stands would certainly lead to more consistent results, and most likely fewer overall exposures to get to the end result. To me though, that is simply location lighting, and not light painting. The difference is more than just semantics––light painting is an active process that requires a different skill set than location lighting. Both are valid approaches, but the former is what makes my creative juices flow.

The line between light painting and location lighting has blurred in recent years. The term Low-level Landscape Lighting (LLL) has come to be used to describe static lighting in astro-landscape photography (ALP). This is partly out of necessity, and partly due to the development of new technologies such as the Luxli panel light.

When working at the high ISOs required for star points in ALP, it’s difficult to light from multiple positions during a brief 15- to 30-second exposure. With short exposures at high ISOs, it’s also hard to control traditional light painting tools like the venerable Coast flashlights, because they are just too bright for such a sensitive sensor. The amount of time required to adequately illuminate most subjects with a bright light at ALP settings is just a fraction of a second.

This is an outtake, initially overlooked because I was excited about the original concept. This one was made at the very end of the sequence—it was actually the last shot of the night. After I felt like I had finally nailed the shot we were originally going for, I decided to try a couple of other ideas just to see what would happen. Which one do you like better? Nikon D750 with an Irix 15mm f/2.4 lens. 25 seconds, f/4.5, ISO 4000.

Final Thoughts

I always tell our workshop participants that there is no wrong or right way to do things in night photography. That’s what makes this such a great medium––it’s incredibly flexible and adaptable to different visions. I don’t try to teach people to do what I do, but how to develop their own techniques and methods to make images that get them excited.

The bottom line is that it doesn’t matter if you do long or short exposures at low or high ISOs, or light with flashlights, strobes or an army of Luxli lights. What does matter is that photographers find a way of working that leads them to grow and that leads them to images that excite them.

Lance Keimig is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night. He has been photographing at night for 30 years, and is the author of Night Photography and Light Painting: Finding Your Way in the Dark (Focal Press, 2015). Learn more about his images and workshops at www.thenightskye.com.

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How I Got the Shot: Light Painting and Star Trails at Devils Tower

Stars at Devils Tower. Nikon D750 with a Zeiss 15mm Distagon f/2.8 lens. Ten stacked frames, each shot at 150 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 1600 (1,500 seconds total).

The Conditions

Shooting under moonless conditions can create consistent challenges for astro-landscape photography. The primary challenge is lighting your main subject. When it’s the Devils Tower in Wyoming, you’ve gotta get it right.

Gabe and I were leading a group of eager learners on a workshop a few years ago when I made the above image.

I was not standing at my camera—I was up at the base of the Tower, illuminating it.

So how did we do this?

The Shoot

Well, lemme first show you how it looks without being lit, which you can see in Figure 1.

Figure 1. Nikon D750 with a Zeiss 15mm Distagon f/2.8 lens. 150 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 1600.

It lacked the detail that screams, “Is that the mountain from that famous movie?!?” Right? Yeah.

But one frame did stand out: when some climbers who had to descend after dark illuminated the deep crevices that are the hallmark of this natural stone edifice (Figure 2).

Figure 2. Nikon D750 with a Zeiss 15mm Distagon f/2.8 lens. 30 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 6400.

Aside from that, we wanted more detail in the Tower. So I set my intervalometer to take many, many (infinite, in fact) exposures. (You can read more on how to do that in our post “Mastering the Intervalometer for Night Photography and Long Exposures.”

I knew I intended to make an epic star trail from this. So I aimed for longer exposure lengths of 150 seconds and let the sequence begin. I knew this was still short enough to manage the long exposure noise that the camera would generate in the mid-August Wyoming heat.

I grabbed a two-way radio and drove up to the parking lot. I hit the loop trail and started doing my own lighting. From so far away from the camera, how did I know I was executing the light painting sufficiently? That’s where the radio came in—I kept pinging Gabe to see if my flashlight was providing proper detail and coverage. Trusting Gabe to be the lighting director from the camera position was crucial.

Gabe advised me to cover about one-quarter of the arc around the base of the Tower. We tried a few variations and settled on a final strategy (Figure 3).

Before and after light painting from the base of the tower.

I shot many different variations (Figure 4) through the evening, sometimes re-framing, sometimes adjusting the exposure length. Even when you’re confident about your approach in the field, it’s always good to push the boundaries of your decisions and to give yourself more options to look at when back at the computer.

Figure 4. The different strategies I shot that night gave me lots of options to choose from in post.

The Post-Production

The final set of frames I chose to work with is this:

Figure 5.

Each image required a gradient for the sky, and a proper Range Mask set to 28/100 Luminance and 19 Smoothness. I also used the mask brush to remove the gradient from Devils Tower itself and from the trees below.

Once the mask was done, I made the adjustments, which were intended to emphasize (but not over-process) the sky. Sometimes that’s a fine line, and one we always want to be conscious of. You can see the mask I created in Figure 6, and the adjustments in Figure 7.

Figure 6.

Figure 7.

Then I needed to stack the frames in Photoshop. In several previous How I Got the Shot blog posts we’ve discussed stacking frames to create star trails and to combine different light-painted compositional elements into one image. This time I used the same technique to achieve both those goals in one photograph—i.e., to get the stars to trail and the light-painted sections of the Tower to composite.

The process is:

  1. Select all the pertinent frames in Lightroom by shift-clicking the first and last.

  2. From the menu, choose Photo > Edit In > Open as Layers in Photoshop.

  3. Once the image opens select all the layers by clicking on the top layer, pressing the shift key and then clicking on the bottom layer.

  4. In the Blending Mode dropdown above the layers (the box that defaults to saying Normal), choose Lighten.

  5. Save and close, which will bring the stacked image back into Lightroom where you can make final edits.

I was really pleased with the stacked result:

Nikon D750 with a Zeiss 15mm Distagon f/2.8 lens. Ten stacked frames, each shot at 150 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 1600 (1,500 seconds total).

The photograph has more mystery with the tree line falling into silhouette and the Tower having detail. This emphasizes where the viewer should look.

A Little Cleanup

Due to some people’s red headlamps and flashlights, the trees and ground closest to us picked up the color. It’s quite hard to edit away, so I brushed in some local adjustments subtracting highlights and whites. After stacking, that still wasn’t enough, so I ended up using layer masks to eliminate the distracting details.

(Hmmmm. Come to think of it, it may have been the brake lights of my rental car when I returned to the group. D’oh! And possibly a “mea culpa” moment. Whoops. Bad Matt.)

When I re-edited the stack this time, I noticed something new. I wanted to crop it to a vertical. It felt … more powerful. More focused.

The final, final result:

Nikon D750 with a Zeiss 15mm Distagon f/2.8 lens. Ten stacked frames, each shot at 150 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 1600 (1,500 seconds total).

Wrapping Up

I gotta say, I am excited to return to the Devil’s Tower with Chris later this year. It’s going to be amazing. What will he and I dream up together? And what will the workshop participants dream up? I bet it’ll be out of this world. (Yeah, I went there.)

How do you achieve better astro-landscape photography by collaborating with friends and peers? Tell us more in the comments, and show us photos!

Note: Want to join Matt and Chris to make epic night photography images at Devils Tower National Monument? We have two spots left for the workshop, so sign up now!

Matt Hill is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night. See more about his photography, art, workshops and writing at MattHillArt.com. Follow Matt on Twitter Instagram Facebook.

UPCOMING WORKSHOPS FROM NATIONAL PARKS AT NIGHT

Filling in the Shadows: Light Painting Before and After

Light painting is and can be many things. It can control the viewer’s eye. It can be a catalyst for creativity. It can bring life into the shadows of a composition. It can add drama to an otherwise ordinary scene. It can be an artist’s brush used to sweep strokes of illumination onto a landscape to allow us to see into the night in new and previously unimagined ways.

In other words, light painting is a versatile tool that can be a means to various ends. Below, all five National Parks at Night instructors share a way they have used light painting to enhance a nocturnal photograph.

You’ll notice that the examples included do not involve drenching a scene with buckets of untamed light to paint every crevice and fill every shadow. They also don’t involve dramatic re-representations of reality, wherein we let the light alter the authenticity of the world that’s in front of the camera. Rather, as Gabe says, we paint with shadows as much as we paint with light. And as Matt says, we let the light merely kiss the subject.

For each photograph, click or press on the slider, and drag it left and right to see how the light painting subtly but noticeably enhances the composition. Study the ways that the added illumination helps accomplish different tasks or helps solve problems of exposure, composition, etc. Then think about how you can apply those same ideas to your own night images.

More importantly, also think about how you may have illuminated these scenes differently. One of the amazing aspects of light painting is that it affords us an opportunity to create a completely different photograph than another photographer who may have the exact same composition.


Lance Keimig

Nikon D850, Irix 11mm f/4 lens, 15 seconds, f/5.6, ISO 3200.

This image of the backside of Lady Boot Arch in the Alabama Hills of California’s Eastern Sierra was made at the end of a long night during our workshop there last November. I had photographed the arch many times before, and was looking for a unique vantage point. It’s a situation that I often find myself faced with––trying to make an image that I’ve never seen before in a familiar location.

Once I found this perspective, I knew that I had the shot. I just had to figure out how to light it. The moon was high in the sky to the west, illuminating the left side of the arch, and the foreground was deep in shadow. I lit the right side of the formation from behind with a warm-gelled Coast HP5R flashlight, which gave depth and texture to the arch, which from the rear looks more like a tower.

The light painting worked like this: The repeated diagonals from upper left to lower right created depth and drama. However, the dark mass on the left and bottom of the frame was too heavy, so I decided to add just a hint of fill light to this part of the frame. Anyone who has studied with me has heard the mantra to “not light from behind the camera,” but in this case, there really wasn’t much of an option. A quick swipe of the flashlight along the surface of the rock was all it took to bring out the texture and fill in the shadows.

The key was to rake the light along the surface of the rock rather than to light it straight on. The flashlight was a better choice for this than my Luxli Viola because I needed a strong directional source, as I was lighting from next to the camera. Low-level Landscape Lighting with the Luxli would have been much easier, as I had only 15 seconds to paint from both locations. But as it turned out, racing to get the lighting completed before the shutter closed was a fun challenge that served the additional purpose of keeping me warm after about eight hours out in the cool autumn air!

This image ended up being my favorite of 2017, not only for the image itself, but for the challenge of executing it all in one frame in just 15 seconds.

 

Tim Cooper

Nikon D4s, Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8 lens. 60 seconds, f/5.6, ISO 100.

Light painting is all about angles and shadows. More specifically, it’s about the angle of the light source to the subject, and the shadows that the light source subsequently produces. Painting a subject while you stand right by the camera always produces the most boring light. Why? Because it causes all of the shadows to fall behind your subject. But when you paint from an oblique angle, you produce a more interesting picture with tons of texture.

Texture, and in turn drama, is brought out when you paint your subject from the side or from behind. Painting your subject from behind causes all of your shadows to fall in front of the subject and toward the camera. This type of lighting can be really dramatic. It can also be difficult to pull off when you have to hide your light from your camera.

That was the case with this footbridge in Cuyahoga Valley National Park. I wanted to paint the railings and the walk, but I didn’t want the flat look of front lighting. So I tripped the shutter and hid the flashlight in front of me while I walked down the bridge pointing the flashlight backward at the left railing. When I reached the end, I walked backward and again hid the flashlight in front of me while I painted the right railing. Doing this kept the flashlight hidden from the camera the whole time.

The next and more difficult task was to light the walk. In this case I couldn’t walk away from the camera while painting with the flashlight in front of me, or my body would have blocked the camera’s view of what I was light painting. So I had to start at the far end of the bridge and walk toward the camera while painting the walk in between me and the camera. Painting in this manner brought out all of the texture in the wood decking.

Unfortunately, it also caused the problem of the flashlight being fully visible to the camera. That’s a big no-no in light painting. To solve this problem, I held my hat in my other hand and used its brim to hide the flashlight from the camera while I painted down at the walk. The diagram below shows the basics of this technique.

Remember to always hide the flashlight from the camera, and always wear dark colors so that the bounce light doesn’t illuminate your body!

 

Gabe Biderman

Nikon D5, 14-24mm f/2.8 lens at 24mm. 20 seconds, f/4, ISO 6400.

Light painting is a must when photographing close subject matter under dark sky conditions. We specifically chose a new moon time period for our first Ambassador Series workshop with Atlas Obscura at Borrego Springs. The focus was to revisualize the many surreal sculptures that surround the town against the billion-star backdrop.

Before I paint with light, I always take several test shots to help me see, compose and focus. This also helps me figure out where the light would create interesting shadows. We call it light painting, but I like to call it “shadow painting” because not only is it about revealing information, but it’s also about creating interesting textures and shadows! This can generally be achieved when our light hits the subject at a 45- to 90-degree angle from the camera.

I also love adding dramatic backlighting to scenes and I chose this composition specifically so that the bush would frame the turtle and I could cast light and shadows into the scene.

During the 20-second exposure I walked 10 feet to the left of the frame with my 1/2 CTO-gelled Coast HP5R flashlight. I did the side lighting at the lowest setting for 2 seconds. I was careful not to move my flashlight while it was on, which allowed me to create the dark shadows along the neck and back of the sculpture—i.e., the areas I shadow painted.

With the flashlight off, I then walked behind the bush, got low and out of view from the camera, and quickly turned the HP5R on and off while it was pointed back toward the turtle. This revealed so much texture in the sand and created an interesting mosaic of shadows reaching toward the viewer.

So give shadow painting a try!

 

Matt Hill

Fuji X-T1, 7artisans 7.5mm f/2.8 lens. 58 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 6400.

Sometimes light painting a 400-foot tall pillar of Moenkopi sandstone calls for bringing in the big guns. I was running a long star stack/time-lapse with some other students on our Capitol Reef National Park workshop earlier this year.

The stack started during moonset, which was very gentle, and beautiful. But according to PhotoPills, the tail end of the Milky Way wouldn’t be ascending the rock formation until we came back to collect our cameras over an hour and a half later. As we came back, student Karl Zuzarte asked what was already on my mind: “Can we light paint the last frame or two of the stack?” “Heck, yes,” I said.

Since it was a bit of a slog to get to our cameras, I asked Gabe to grab a radio and a Luxli Cello panel light (which is the new big brother to the Viola), and to head off about 1/4-mile away at an oblique angle similar to moonset.

Gabe set the Cello to 3000K and maybe 2 percent intensity. Unlike sweeping a flashlight around, which softens the shadow edges, the fixed position of the panel created the perfect strong kiss of light to cast crisp shadows. And its 72-degree beam angle covered the entire massive rock formation and grazed the tops of the vegetation on the desert floor.

 

Chris Nicholson

Nikon D3s, 14-24mm f/2.8 lens at 14mm. 15 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 2000.

When shooting in Cape Hatteras National Seashore earlier this year, I was excited to tackle perhaps the most famous light house in the United States: the eponymous Cape Hatteras Light. I'd shot there only once before, in 2001 or so, and that was during daylight. This time, I got to do it with stars!

I went for a wide-angle composition, drawn by the symmetry of the scene, as well as by the low angle that allowed me to include as many stars as possible. I liked the framing, but felt the scene needed a little lighting to help emphasize the primary subject—i.e., the lighthouse. If I’d let the structure stay in relative silhouette, then the visual emphasis would have been on the sky instead.

For the light painting I used a lightly gelled (1/2 CTO) Coast HP7R flashlight. I stood to camera-right, beyond the out-of-frame fence, at almost 90 degrees from the lighthouse. I fired my shutter with a Vello Freewave wireless remote, then started light painting with a wide beam and a downward stroke, starting at the lantern and moving down to the stones and steps at the base. I then quickly focused the flashlight for a tight beam and side-lit the fence leading to the bottom of the frame, letting it catch just pieces of the fence here and there, but being careful not to light the grass.


Light it Up!

We hope this gives you some ideas about various ways you can light the night, and about some of the ways you can use light painting to overcome night photography obstacles.

There are of course many other examples, and I’m sure we’ll offer more in the future. In the meantime, we’d love to see your work. In the Comments section, please share some stories (with photos, of course) of how you have used light painting to help you seize the night!

Chris Nicholson is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night, and author of Photographing National Parks (Sidelight Books, 2015). Learn more about national parks as photography destinations, subscribe to Chris' free e-newsletter, and more at www.PhotographingNationalParks.com.

UPCOMING WORKSHOPS FROM NATIONAL PARKS AT NIGHT