Astronomical Events

Sun Stories: Two Takes on Eclipsing in Spain

It’s been just over a week since we experienced Spain’s first eclipse in over 100 years with an amazing group of National Parks at Night photographers.

It had all the feelings: Anticipation. Stress. Excitement. Stress. Thrill. And the moment itself—the release of it all. Light like we’ve never seen, felt or experienced before. And all in a minute and 20 seconds!

Throughout the experience, we were in a frenzy of clicking, bracketing, oohing and ahhhing.

What was so special this time was that the eclipse was low in the sky, only 6 degrees above the horizon.

We were just outside the Bardenas Reales Nature Reserve, which, unfortunately just a couple of weeks prior, had decided to close to the public for the eclipse. The legitimate fear of wildfires and recklessness had “eclipsed” some of their enthusiasm for welcoming thousands of chasers. It was unfortunate, because we had dreams of our group making images such as this fantasy composite (we can dream) of the reserve’s iconic Castildetierra rock formation:

Castildetierra in Bardenas Reales Nature Reserve fantasy-composited with the total solar eclipse photographed the next day.

Moreover, concerned Spanish authorities were placing rigid restrictions on where people could view the eclipse in the area, limiting activity to designated roadside pullouts and the like.

Fortunately we had a Plan B. We had rented the unique Hotel Aire de Bardenas just outside of the park, where we could set up comfortably in relative privacy. The day was clear and hot, reaching 107 degrees F, so access to shade was a blessing.

The eclipse first contact started at 7:33 p.m. Totality started at 8:28. It lasted 1 minute, 20 seconds, and the sun set as a quarter eclipse along the horizon at 9:04.

I was leading this trip along with Chris Nicholson, and below we each discuss a photo we created.

Gabe’s Photo

This was my fourth eclipse, and it was by far the shortest. But it was also the most unique, because it was a sunset eclipse.

We didn’t have a great wide-angle foreground, so I focused on capturing the event with my Nikon 100-400mm telephoto lens zoomed all the way out at 400mm. With that focal length, I was able to hone in on the distant hills of the region.

Capturing a close-up of the eclipse almost always means the rest of the scene is black, but including a sense of place was important to me. To accomplish that, I photographed the eclipse with my astro-modified Nikon Z 6II camera, and I continued to track the partial eclipse as it set along the horizon. I was mesmerized by the beautiful red-orange three-quarter crescent sunset (Figure 1), so I wanted to combine that with my earlier capture of totality (Figure 2).

Figure 1.

Figure 2.

To create the composite, I processed both images and then placed the total eclipse image over the sunset crescent.

The darkness of totality must be experienced by all, but the most defining part of totality close up is the glow of the sun behind the moon. I wanted to extend that luminous glow to the rest of the image to create this different take on the eclipse.

Eclipse setting over the hills of Spain. Astro-modified Nikon Z 6II with a Nikon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 lens. Two frames blended in Photoshop. Sun: 1/125, f/8, ISO 3200 with a Thousand Oaks Optical Solarlite solar filter; foreground: 1/1000, f/5.6, ISO 100.

Chris’ Photo

Like Gabe, I didn’t feel drawn to creating just a full-frame portrait of the eclipse, but rather wanted to make a photo that had a sense of place. To achieve that, I set up with a relatively short Nikon 24-70mm lens, zoomed out to 70mm. That allowed me to frame the landscape—a foreground farm field, backed by the hills and some windmills along the ridge—while still shooting with a focal length long enough so that the sun wouldn’t look tiny in the composition.

I set up my camera to shoot a five-frame bracket of shutter speeds, with each two stops apart (i.e., 1/2, 1/8, 1/30, 1/125 and 1/500) to make sure I got a good exposure at each phase of the eclipse, then I set my intervalometer to repeat that bracket every 2 minutes. When totality happened, I removed the solar filter and closed down the aperture from f/8 to f/16. After totality I replaced the filter and let the sequence keep running. The only adjustment I made was to increase the ISO (from 100 to 200 to 400) as the sun grew darker while approaching the horizon.

In Photoshop I composited 19 of the eclipse photos, masking out everything in each frame except the eclipsed sun, then changed the blending mode to Lighten. I layered the eclipse sequence over a foreground exposure that I’d made after sunset, then made a minor adjustment to lighten the landscape.

The one problem remaining was that the Lighten blending mode hid the darkened moon in the total eclipse. To fix this, I made a copy of the totality layer, changed its blending mode to Normal, then masked out everything except the dark moon. The result looked fake because the moon was too black against the rest of the scene, so I reduced the opacity to achieve a more realistic-looking result.

Eclipse phases over a Spanish landscape. Twenty frames blended in Photoshop. Nikon D5 with a Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 lens. Sun phases: 1/125, f/8, ISO 100-400 with a MrStarGuy Natural Light solar filter; totality: 1/2, f/16, ISO 100; foreground: 1/30, f/8, ISO 200.

Final Thoughts

The primary takeaway from this experience was probably the importance of pivoting around obstacles. We had planned and confirmed our shoot location more than two years ahead and then lost access to it about two weeks ahead. We even got kicked out of the national reserve the evening before while practicing because authorities decided to spontaneously close the park early.

So, knowing how to alter your course is important. Having a Plan B is critical. And trusting that you know your process will always give you the peace of mind needed to succeed amid change.

When totality ended, the group cheered and enjoyed a glass of wine, toasting right there in the field behind our still-clicking cameras. When the eclipsing sun set below the horizon, we shared some tapas, then retired to the pool, where we watched Perseid meteors streak across a clear sky.

Your Experience

Did you get to see and/or photograph this eclipse? We would love to hear your tales and see your art.

Share in the comments below, or on our Facebook page, or on Instagram (tag us @nationalparksatnight #nationalparksatnight #seizethenight). Be sure to share your story too—the technical aspects, the challenge overcome, or a tale of the experience.

Gabriel Biderman is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night. He is a Brooklyn-based fine art and travel photographer, and author of Night Photography: From Snapshots to Great Shots (Peachpit, 2014). During the daytime hours you'll often find Gabe at one of many photo events around the world working for B&H Photo’s road marketing team. See his portfolio and workshop lineup at www.ruinism.com.

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From Plane to Rain to Desert Moon: The Great Lunar Eclipse Chase of 2025

It had been a while since we were last able to photograph a total lunar eclipse in the Americas—November 2022, to be exact. I missed shooting them, because I love shooting them.

I started chasing lunar eclipses in 2014 when I took a Dusk to Dawn workshop group to Las Vegas for the second in the tetrad of lunar eclipses that were happening over a one-year period. The next time was 2019, when I was in Atlanta and found a view of downtown with car trails and a big super blood moon.

High Roller & Lunar Moon Trail, 2014. 55mm focal length, 15 minutes f/8, ISO 400.

The 2019 super blood wolf moon (aka the lunar eclipse) over Atlanta. Foreground: 35mm lens, 25 seconds, f/16, ISO 200; background (moon): 600mm lens, 1/2 second, f/5.6, ISO 3200.

Lunar eclipses are relatively easy to shoot, compared to solar eclipses—you don’t need special filters and you typically have an hour of totality instead of mere minutes. Looking back recently, a common theme I noticed was that I had shot all my lunar eclipses in urban locations. So for the March 2025 eclipse last week, I wanted to travel someplace dark. Given that I would be in Vegas again right before this eclipse, I set my eyes on experiencing the event in the gold-tier dark skies of nearby Death Valley National Park.

The Players

As always is the case with night photography, I wanted to enjoy this experience with others. I was heading to Vegas for the WPPI conference, so it wasn’t hard to find friends who were willing to adventure together. The team comprised:

  • Susan Magnano, night photographer, luminescent portrait expert, Night Photo Summit speaker and birthday girl!

  • Clifford Pickett, post-processing wizard and educator in all things photography

  • JC Carey, master of bringing light and drama to any scene with his Westcott strobes always at the ready

The Plan

Death Valley is a vast national park with lots of scenery options. The idea I proposed was to photograph the hexagonal patterns of salt flats with mountains in the distance (like in the photo below) and the moon high in the sky.

Salt flat formations, Death Valley National Park. © Chris Nicholson. Nikon D5 with a Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8 lens. 1/320, f/8, ISO 100.

JC and I planned to fly in early on the 13th and head right to Death Valley. Susan and Cliff were already there and were able to do some key scouting for locations.

When JC and I landed, the weather was horrible. It was raining, totally overcast, windy and cold. But the forecast for Death Valley was that things would clear up about an hour before totality. That being said, Death Valley has different weather all over the massive park, so we kept our fingers crossed.

Another not-so-fun fact about Death Valley (depending on your priorities) is that it has very limited cell reception. Fortunately we got just enough of a sliver of service to learn that when Susan and Cliff scouted Badwater Basin—the usual spot for shooting salt patterns—they found nothing. Hurricane Hillary in 2023 and heavy rains in 2024 wiped out the formations (which is part of the normal cycle of nature there), and new ones had not completely reformed yet. So Susan and Cliff found another location with more defined patterns, and they sent us a pin.

The Shoot

Dropped pins work OK in Death Valley, as long as you have downloaded an offline map in Google Maps—which fortunately I had. We found Susan and Cliff after only one turnaround, when we spotted a lone car parked on the side of the road and a few tripods out in the darkness. We pulled over and called out “Susan, is that you?” A familiar voice called back, “You made it!” Finding your friends in the dark can be a very comforting feeling.

The sky was looking pretty good. There were still some big patchy clouds, but to the west were lots of stars. The air was a little chilly with winds approximately 10 mph, which was down significantly from the 50 mph winds earlier.

We started looking for primo honeycomb patterns that we could frame in front of the moon. By the time the clouds cleared, the eclipse was halfway toward totality. It looked very cool.

I had two setups going, but the main one was my Nikon Z 8 with a 14-24mm f/2.8 lens low to the ground to emphasize the raised lines of salt. I focused on the hyperfocal distance and was able to achieve sharp focus from 3 feet away to the stars at infinity.

Once totality kicked in and the moon turned dark red, I needed to home in on the proper exposure for the moon with detail. The correct foreground shot (Figure 1) was 8 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 6400. The properly exposed wide moon shot (Figure 2) was 1/2, f/4, ISO 1250. That is a five-plus-stop difference in exposure.

Figure 1. The foreground exposure. Nikon Z 8 with a Nikon Z 14-24mm f/2.8 lens. 8 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 6400.

Figure 2. The moon exposure. 1/2, f/4, ISO 1250.

I shot both frames at 18mm and later blended the properly exposed lunar eclipse with the foreground in Photoshop (Figure 3).

I shot a few different takes of this with different salt patterns, and I also used a Luxli Fiddle at .1 percent power to sidelight the scene and bring out the texture of the ground. However, for this foreground shot a car was driving down the road and the sidelight from the headlights provided the perfect visual punch to the salt flats.

Figure 3. The final blended image.

I also had my Nikon ZF camera mounted with a 100-400mm lens to get some close-up views of the eclipse during totality. I was inspired by Chris Nicholson’s bright star field capture of the lunar eclipse in 2022 and wanted to create something similar that as well.

The stars were really sparkling during totality and my proper lunar eclipse exposure (Figure 4) was 1/15, f/5.6, ISO 6400 shooting with the lens at 185mm. The sharp star field shot (Figure 5) was 1/2, f/5.6, ISO 25,600 also at 185mm.

Figure 4. Nikon ZF with a Nikon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 lens at 185mm. 1/15, f/5.6, ISO 6400.

Figure 5. 1/2, f/5.6, ISO 25,600.

What made blending these images together (Figure 6) easier than typical moon-swapping blends is that the glow around the moon was minimal because the moon was so dim.

Figure 6. The final blended image.

The Group Experience

It was very cool to experience the lunar eclipse in a dark location such as Death Valley. We were able to experience a variety of night photography opportunities due to the full-moon transition from a bright sky and landscape to an incredibly dark sky with stars aplenty, then back again, all within a few hours.

What I also found to be fun was that each of us were trying different interpretations of the lunar eclipse. JC’s favorite was a timelapse he set up that really shows the transition of the eclipse into totality.

© 2025 JC Carey.

Of course it wouldn’t be a night shoot with Susan if she didn’t bring out her light tubes and start taking luminescent portraits! That was super fun and a wonderful way to forever commemorate the Great Lunar Eclipse Chase of 2025.

© 2025 Susan Magnano.

© 2025 Susan Magnano.

Your Turn

We’d love to see your eclipse images and hear your eclipse stories! Share in the comments below, or on our Facebook page, or on Instagram (tag us @nationalparksatnight #nationalparksatnight #seizethenight).

If you didn’t get to shoot this lunar eclipse, another will hit the Americas on March 3, 2026. You’ll need to go west to see totality—in Alaska, Washington, Oregon, California and Canada. Bring friends. It’s the best way to enjoy and remember the experience!

Gabriel Biderman is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night. He is a Brooklyn-based fine art and travel photographer, and author of Night Photography: From Snapshots to Great Shots (Peachpit, 2014). During the daytime hours you'll often find Gabe at one of many photo events around the world working for B&H Photo’s road marketing team. See his portfolio and workshop lineup at www.ruinism.com.

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Are You Ready for the Total Lunar Eclipse of 2025?

If total lunar eclipses seem like a thing of the past, there’s a good reason for that: The world hasn’t seen one since 2022. But have no fear—the disappearing act is back!

This week the moon will cross completely into Earth’s shadow, providing an opportunity for most of the photographers in the Western Hemisphere to get out and shoot this uncommon celestial event.

This eclipse will happen on the overnight of March 13 to 14, 2025—in other words, you want to be out tomorrow night. We’re offering this blog post to help you get prepared.

Info About the Eclipse

To learn more about this eclipse, we recommend checking out these excellent resources:

Where to See the Eclipse

A good portion of the Western Hemisphere will witness the total eclipse, including all of the contiguous United States and the eastern half of Alaska, plus all of Canada, all of Central America and half of South America.

Courtesy of NASA.

How to Shoot the Eclipse

Gear

You don’t need any special equipment beyond what you’d use to photograph any moon at night: camera, lens, tripod. You can add a cable remote, an intervalometer, a star tracker, etc., but you won’t need any special light filters or anything of that nature.

Consider using both long and wide lenses to create different types of compositions. The former will give you great moon portraits, while the latter will allow you to portray the moon as an element of a wider night scene (see below). The visible eclipse will last 3.5 hours from beginning to end, and totality will last about an hour. You can work through a lot of scenarios and ideas in that much time, and you can even wait out clouds that might be blocking the moon for a bit.

Lunar eclipse over Price Lake, Blue Ridge Parkway. Nikon D5 with a Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 lens. Three blended frames shot at 30 seconds (foreground), 15 seconds (stars) and 1/4 second (moon), f/2.8, ISO 6400.

Scouting

Use PhotoPills to see ahead of time where the moon will be in the sky during the eclipse. You can do this with the Eclipse panel in the Planner, or if you’re already on location just use Night AR in the Moon pill to visualize where the moon will move during the times mentioned above.

Exposure

Pay attention to shutter speed. The moon moves faster than it appears—a little less than 2,300 miles per hour. The moon moves the length of its diameter every 2 minutes.

This means that if your shutter speed is too long, the moon will blur. The wider your lens, the longer shutter speed you can get away with—even as long as 10 seconds or so. But with longer lenses, you’ll be limited to much shorter speeds.

Be ready to change exposure. The moon will get darker closer to the middle of the eclipse, so an exposure that looks good at 1:30 a.m. EDT will appear dark at 3 a.m., and your good 3 a.m. exposure will blow out the moon at 5:00 a.m. But you have to be careful about compensating for that loss of illumination by changing your shutter speed too much, lest your moon go soft from motion (see above). Therefore, during totality you’ll probably want to increase your ISO instead.

More Info

In the past we’ve written a few blog posts about lunar eclipse photography. Reading through them will offer a little more context about how to work this week.

When to Shoot the Eclipse

All phases of the eclipse will happen simultaneously for viewers across time zones. However, because your watches will be different, the times will be different. To that end, we offer the following guides for when to be out shooting, and for when to expect what. (Click to open, right-click to download.)

Atlantic Daylight Time (GMT -3)

Eastern Daylight Time (GMT -4)

Central Daylight Time (GMT -5)

Mountain Daylight Time (GMT -6)

Pacific Daylight Time (GMT -7)

Alaska Daylight Time (GMT -8)

Wrapping Up

We wish all of you great success in shooting for the moon this week! Please come back and share your photos with us. Share in the comments below, or on our Facebook page, or on Instagram (tag us @nationalparksatnight #nationalparksatnight #seizethenight). Be sure to tell a story too—the technical aspects, the challenge overcome, or a tale of the experience.

Chris Nicholson is a partner and director of content with National Parks at Night, and author of Photographing National Parks (Sidelight Books, 2015) and Photographing Lighthouses (Sidelight Books, 2025). Learn more about national parks as photography destinations, subscribe to Chris' free e-newsletter, and more at www.PhotographingNationalParks.com.

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Wishing Upon Some Falling Stars: The Tau Herculids May (or May Not) be a Night of a Lifetime

One autumn night in 1995 I arrived home late. I was about to walk into the back door of the house when I casually looked up at the stars, and there it was: comet 73P/Schwassmann-Wachmann 3. Wow. It was as clear as anything else in the sky, beautifully floating amidst the stars. I’d never seen anything like it. Moreover, after Halley’s Comet had so disappointed me as a young teen in 1986, I’d really expected never to see any comet at all.

Sometimes the universe can seem so static. From one night to the next we look up and see what seems like the same stars, the same moon, the same unfathomable expanse of nothing that surrounds our pale blue dot.

Then something reminds us that the universe is always in motion, always in flux, always ready with a surprise. We get a lunar eclipse that seizes the interest of half the globe. Or a comet that no one had known existed sails in from the Kuiper belt and dazzles us for a glorious summer month. Or, in the case of this week, a brand new meteor shower rains stars into our night sky.

Comet NEOWISE over Jordan Pond, Acadia National Park. © 2020 Chris Nicholson. Nikon D5 with a Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 lens. Six stitched frames shot at 15 seconds, f/2.8, ISO 6400.

What? Well, maybe. This Monday, May 30, we might see one of the most dazzling displays of meteors ever. Or not. Astronomers aren’t sure, and the only way to find out is to stay up and look up.

The meteoroids in question do exist. They’re left over from that 1995 flyby, and now Earth is maybe about to come upon them in space.

Maybe? Well, astronomers aren’t exactly sure how far the debris has traveled, but some credible projections put them right in Earth’s path. If those projections are accurate, and if we pass through the heart of the debris cloud, it could produce one of the densest clusters of shooting stars ever witnessed. The Tau Herculid Meteor Shower, as its come to be known, could be astronomically historic.

What does that mean in terms of the number of potential shooting stars? The meteorologist for The Washington Post says 1,000 per hour. Universe Today says as many as 1,400. (To put those numbers in perspective, consider that a really good year for the famous Perseid Meteor Shower yields about 100 per hour.)

Perseid Meteor Shower outburst over Badlands National Park. © 2021 Matt Hill.

But, again, the Tau Herculid number could be zero.

In fact, zero is the hunch of Tyler Nordgen, astronomer, Night Photo Summit speaker and author of the book Stars Above, Earth Below: A Guide to Astronomy in the National Parks. “If I were to bet, I’d say this upcoming meteor shower will turn out to be nothing,” Nordgren says. “I still remember spending a perfectly starry night out in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore for the supposed Camelopardalids meteor ‘storm’ in May 2014 and not seeing a single meteor all night.”

Still, Nordgren says the potential for what could happen is probably worth a look. “It only has to actually happen once for you to see (or miss) the experience of a lifetime. So if it’s clear, I’ll go out. I’m not making a special trip to the desert Southwest, but I’ll hang out in my backyard and see what I can see. What’s the worst that can happen?”

Shooting the Potential Shower

This all brings us to what to do as photographers. I say get the camera ready and get outside.

If you choose that option, Nordgren has some advice: “Use a wide-angle lens to capture a lot of sky. Point upward with something on the horizon in the field of view to give a sense of scale, and just let the camera expose for 10, 20, 40, 90 seconds or more. See what you capture. It takes only one photo to make a night to remember.”

If you want to shoot the meteor shower, download our e-book Great Balls of Fire by clicking the image above.

For even more to strategize such a shoot, see our blog post “How to Photograph a Meteor Shower.” Better yet, read our e-book Great Balls of Fire: A Guide to Photographing Meteor Showers.

Boötes the Herdsman

For this particular meteor shower, the radiant will be near the Boötes the Herdsman constellation, which is around the bright orange star Arcturus and not far from the handle of the Big Dipper. To find it, use an app such as Sky Map (Android), Sky Guide (iOS) or Stellarium (ambivalent). Alternatively, use PhotoPills—they just added the Tau Herculids to their meteor shower data, so you can do a full scout like with pretty much any other celestial event. Include the radiant in your composition to get the best chance of capturing a meteor, or to capture a series of exposures for creating a “meteor radiant” image.

The Western Hemisphere (and a small part of West Africa) will be the best place to view the shower (weather-permitting), unless you’re in a midnight-sun or simmer-dim kind of area. Be outside and look up around 1 a.m. EDT, or 10 p.m. PDT.

Again, this event might not be an event at all. If you’re undecided whether to try to witness or photograph the potential shower, here are some pros and cons:

Pros

  • If the meteors do show, they could produce a once-in-many-lifetimes experience.

  • We’re in a new moon, so lunar conditions are optimal to see any stars that may fall.

Cons

  • Though the number of meteors could be high, most are likely to be dim. (Visible and photographable, but not bright like the Perseids.)

  • The radiant is high—halfway up from the horizon on the east coast, and nearly overhead on the west. This makes including the landscape in compositions more challenging. (But not impossible.)

More Information

For more about the Tau Herculids, see these great articles:

Show Us What You Get

Will you wish upon some falling stars? If you’re feeling lucky or adventurous and you go out to shoot, we’d love to see your photos. Please share them in the comments section or on our Facebook page, or tag us (@nationalparksatnight) on Instagram.

Chris Nicholson is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night, and author of Photographing National Parks (Sidelight Books, 2015). Learn more about national parks as photography destinations, subscribe to Chris' free e-newsletter, and more at www.PhotographingNationalParks.com.

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Once in a Red Moon: Photographing the Lunar Eclipse

Cameras ready! This evening’s night skies will feature a total lunar eclipse.

The show will last about 3.5 hours, beginning at about 10:30 p.m. Eastern time, and ending at about 2 a.m., with totality falling between about 11:30 and 1. Moreover, the eclipse will be visible to about one-third of humans around the world—in most of Europe, Africa, and North and South America (including all of the United States)—providing extraordinary photo opportunities to countless photographers.

A lunar eclipse differs from its solar cousin in that we don’t get a total blackout, or a ring of fire, or any of that kind of end-of-days drama. But the moon, should weather allow you to see it, will become completely dim and red.

Why? Because a solar eclipse is a phenomenon of the light source (the sun) being blocked from view, while a lunar eclipse is a phenomenon of the moon moving into a shadow. When something is in a shadow, you can usually still see it—just dimmer, and perhaps with altered color. That’s exactly what’s happening during a total lunar eclipse. The moon appears dimmer in the Earth’s shadow, and takes on first a yellowish and then a reddish hue because the only light hitting it is being bent and filtered through our atmosphere.

A Quick Rundown

Here are a few notes on photographing a lunar eclipse:

No special gear is needed beyond what you’d use to photograph any moon at night: camera, lens, tripod. You can add a cable remote, an intervalometer, a star tracker, etc., but you won’t need any special light filters or anything of that nature.

Use PhotoPills to see ahead of time where the moon will be in the sky during the eclipse. You can do this with the Eclipse panel in the Planner, or if you’re already on location just use Night AR in the Moon pill to visualize where the moon will move during the times mentioned above.

PhotoPills.com showing the location of the moon at the time of peak totality, as it can be seen from the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park.

Consider using both long and wide lenses to create different types of compositions. The former will give you great moon portraits, while the latter will allow you to portray the moon as an element of a wider night scene.

Slow down. The eclipse will last 3.5 hours from beginning to end, and totality will last about 90 minutes. You can work through a lot of scenarios and ideas in that much time, and you can even wait out clouds that might be blocking the moon for a bit.

Pay attention to shutter speed. The moon moves faster than it appears—a little less than 2,300 miles per hour. According to Lance Keimig’s book Night Photography and Light Painting, that means the moon moves the length of its diameter every 2 minutes. If your shutter speed is too long, it will blur. The wider your lens, the longer shutter speed you can get away with—even as long as 10 seconds or so. But with longer lenses, you’ll be limited to much shorter speeds. (Below, see a graphic from a test Matt Hill ran a few years ago, based on using a 300mm lens.)

Be ready to change exposure. The moon will get darker closer to the middle of the eclipse, so an exposure that looks good at 10:30 p.m. EDT will appear dark at midnight, and your good midnight exposure will blow out the moon at 1:30 a.m. But you have to be careful about compensating for that loss of illumination by changing your shutter speed too much, lest your moon go soft from motion (see the previous point). Therefore, during totality you’ll probably want to increase your ISO instead.

Further Exploration

Obviously you can dive a lot deeper into a topic such as this. Here are a few options:

Wrapping Up

We wish all of you great success in shooting for the moon tonight! Please come back and share your photos with us.

Chris Nicholson is a partner and workshop leader with National Parks at Night, and author of Photographing National Parks (Sidelight Books, 2015). Learn more about national parks as photography destinations, subscribe to Chris' free e-newsletter, and more at www.PhotographingNationalParks.com.

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